Hand-embroidery, couture and a conversation in craftsmanship.
We first heard from Catherine Martin in May with a request that made our entire studio sit up a little straighter: to recreate the archival Black Diamond costume from Moulin Rouge!
The original look was worn by Nicole Kidman as Satine and designed by Catherine Martin and Angus Strathie. Black and silver. Fish-scale shimmer. Thousands of Swarovski crystals. A corset with a Victorian backbone and a showgirl’s heart. Pure theatre, stitched into history.
This original garment now lives at the Powerhouse Museum- available for viewing but no longer allowed to wear (must be preserved, right?). Which meant: if Kendall Jenner was going to walk Vogue World 2025 in Hollywood wearing Satine’s iconic look, a recreation had to be made. And that’s where we found ourselves thrilled- the kind that’s equal parts excitement and responsibility.
Where We Began: Studying the Archive
Catherine and her team shared detailed photographs of the original Moulin Rogue garment- every scallop, every panel, every burst of shine. We studied the beading patterns like the way you study maps- closely, patiently, obsessively.
The goal wasn’t duplication. It was faithful recreation- the kind that respects the piece’s history.
The Hand-embroidery Process: 1420 Hours of Handwork
Our team began building the panels, one square inch at a time.
A bed of silver sequins, with long silver bugles stitched over them. Crystals graduating in size to form a captivating fish-scale pattern. Silver-lined bugles for the fringes, all held together with fine silver threads.
It took thousands of Swarovski crystals and 1420 hours for our master craftsmen to bring this embroidery to life- ensuring the final piece would move and sparkle exactly as the original once did.
Sculpting The Silhouette:
Once the beaded panels were ready, they were sculpted into form by the incredibly skilled Michelle Wiki. Corsetry on a fully beaded surface is a skill in itself- it requires precision, patience and a steady hand.
And then there was the millinery- the crystal-trimmed top hat by Rosie Boylan, recreated after carefully studying and tracing the archival pieces at the Powerhouse Museum.
The look is part couture, part architecture- a true collaboration of designers, makers, milliners and embroiderers to honour the original.
The Moment of Truth:
And then it all came together on the Vogue World runway- Kendall Jenner in the recreated Black Diamond, under the Hollywood lights, celebrating fashion and film.
For a costume that once lived on the big screen, then behind a museum glass, seeing it move again felt like…watching history breathe.
What This Project Meant to Us:
As embroiderers and design partners, we rarely get opportunities that bridge craft, cinema, history and couture so seamlessly.
We’re truly grateful to Catherine Martin and her team for trusting us with something this iconic. For letting our artisans step into a conversation that began over two decades ago. And for giving us space to honour the original while bringing it back to life.
Projects like this remind us exactly why we do what we do.
About Ricamour Embroideries:
Ricamour Embroideries is a hand-embroidery and design studio based in Mumbai. We work with design houses and ateliers around the world, reimagining embroidery for fashion, interiors and art.
Curious about our work? Explore our archives and designs that our skilled artisans brought to life.
To explore new ideas or custom embroideries, email us at info@ricamour.com or message us on WhatsApp.
