Paris Couture Week is a spectacle of creativity, craftsmanship and artistic innovation. This FW ’24-25 season, designers transcended creative boundaries, experimented with avant-garde materials, and transformed their visionary concepts into masterpieces adorned with exquisite embroidery and unparalleled artistry. Let’s explore some of our favourite ones that lit up the runway and we hope it offers boundless inspiration to designers, like you.
Rahul Mishra: A Cosmic Symphony of Embroidery
Rahul Mishra’s latest collection is a mesmerizing exploration of the aura surrounding every individual. It draws inspiration from Lord Brahma, the creator of the cosmos.
The craftsmanship, reminiscent of Claude Monet’s impressionist strokes, translates human flesh textures into intricate thread-work, rhinestones, sequins, glass beads, and zardozi.
This gradient from black at the center to ethereal white tones symbolizes an electromagnetic aura. We love the use of bugle beads stitched vertically to create a three dimensional texture.
The show-stopper garments with multiple faces are supported by a meticulously welded metal frame, an amalgamation of skills (couture and sculpting) that we both admire and appreciate.
Robert Wun: The Embroidered Passage of Time
Robert Wun’s collection delves into the ephemeral nature of time, represented by natural phenomena such as the first snowfall, the bloom of spring, and the fall of autumn leaves.
In his words, “It aims to encapsulate the concept through craftsmanship, where time shines through the art of couture. We wish to take our audience through a cinematic experience, a moment to get lost in time.”
We love how the effect of snow melting has been captured with a mix of opaque and clear beads. The beading techniques used to create multiple textures is what sets this one apart.
The highlight of the collection is an ethereal gown adorned with 97,000 Swarovski crystals, requiring 1,430 hours of handwork to recreate the Milky Way’s splendour. This work is a testament to the profound beauty and complexity that embroidery can achieve.
Another masterpiece, inspired by the anatomy of muscles and veins, features over 68,500 vertical glass bugle beads, symbolizing the intricate design of human anatomy with 1,390 hours of embroidery. Wun’s collection challenges us to see the potential of embroidery.
Juana Martin: The Expressive Potential of Embroidery!
This collection is a profound exploration of good and evil, featuring a striking black and white palette. The dramatic flames in transparent red resin symbolize temptation, creating a visually compelling narrative.
The ingenious use of beads and chains to create a gauze-like effect showcases her skill in blending traditional materials with modern design.
We love how the ‘fruits of sin’ are brilliantly illustrated with metal fruits, merging sculpting and couture.
Her work is a reminder that embroidery can be both a moral and aesthetic exploration, thus, pushing the boundaries of fashion’s expressive potential.
Giambattista Valli: The Floral Fantasy
Giambattista Valli’s latest collection, influenced by his recent visit to India, is a floral fantasy come to life.
Known for his skill in sculpting volumes through drapes, Valli played with fabrics to create 3D floral bouquets, some even reminiscent of Indian jasmine garlands.
The collection is a textural wonderland, with colours that breathe fresh air into a couture season dominated by neutrals and darker hues. We admire the rare combination of high volume and lightweight materials, achieving a whimsical and airy aesthetic.
The 3D flowers are made with laser cut fabric and we love the textures they create with drapes and pleats.
Armani Privé: The Resurgence of Pearls
Pearls are timeless and we love a modern twist on its elegance. Using them in different sizes to create bold textures (don’t miss the massive pearl on the hat) and embellishments is what makes this special.
The pearl cape with tassels, the black pearl neckline and the beautiful mix of pearls, beads and crystals is sophisticated and classic with a contemporary aesthetic.
The focus on using embellishment as jewellery adornment is here to stay.
These designs demonstrate the transformative power of embroidery and encourage us to push the boundaries of our own creativity.
Read all about the Hand-Embroidery Techniques That Won Our Hearts at the MET Gala 2024.
At the heart of everything we do at Ricamour Embroideries is to conserve the fine craft of hand embroidery. We create exquisite pieces of art across Couture, Prêt-à-Porter and Bridal and take pride in offering the best possible quality. Our Process ensures couture-standard workmanship is coupled with high quality components to give our clients the highest possible finish.
Write to us on info@ricamour.com or whatsApp us to know more about what we do and our designs.
